GPHG Juror Kory Kwok Picks His Top 5 Watches: An Exclusive Interview with Gentlemen Who Brunch

Watches used to have one job, and one job only – to tell time. Yet in a world where your phone, laptop and even your microwave remind you of how much time you’ve either wasted doom scrolling, or how late you are to your next meeting, wearing a watch with a dial and hands seems to be no longer seems necessary. As Jean-Claude Biver, former CEO of LVMH group, once said: “Look at your watch. Don’t look at what time it is.” Because your watch doesn’t just tell you the time, it tells you how valuable time is. 

A couple of months ago, we sat down with Kory Kwok, the founder of Kory Horology and Engraving and member of GPHG, the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix.  At his young age, Kory is dedicated to teaching today’s youth the language of watches, so when we asked him what his favourite watches were, he deliberately strayed us away from the predictable, multi-million-dollar Swiss brands, and instead highlighted the quiet horological revolution bubbling in East Asia.

From Hong Kong to Macau, independent micro-brands are proving that when you stop using a watch to keep track of time, it begins to tell a completely different story. Here is Kory’s breakdown of 5 chic, boundary-breaking brands that remind us exactly why our time is precious. 

Nectere

Founded by duo James Wong and Tony Yip, Nectere watches reject the concept of strict and rigid schedules projected by most traditional timepieces. Instead, the duo wants you to embrace the unpredictability and spontaneity of life.

Inspired by the Butterfly Effect, their debut collection, “Order From Chaos,” features a razor-thin 8.5mm case with subtle, sinuous ripples along the bezel to mirror the irregularities of life. “This watch introduces remarkably bold ideas into contemporary design.” Kory observes, “Currently, very few brands and watchmakers adopt such daring designs for their watches, especially the big names. Their iconic status and brand DNA prevent them from creating unconventional shapes.” For Kory, Nectere’s true breakthrough lies in its balance. “At first glance, it may seem chaotic, but it is quite orderly. This bold design, combined with its value for money, makes it a watch suitable for everyday wear, capable of sparking conversation in any setting.” 

OLTO-8 

Named after the Italian pronunciation of “8”, this Hong Kong-based watch brand treats the passing of hours as they would a performance rather than a countdown. Instead of a traditional, slow-crawling hand, the Chrono Gate uses a one-of-a-kind mechanical rocker arm that makes the disc instantly snap from 12 to 0 at midday and back again at midnight. Kory notes that the “Olto 8 Chrono Gate’s core mechanism design enhances the playfulness and functionality of the watch.”, linking its features to other works such as Ludovic Ballouard’s, which also use rotating discs to add interest and display time simultaneously. “Instead of the traditional 12-hour dial showing a 24-hour cycle, it uses two separate dials for a clearer representation of the 24 hours in a day. Compared to other watches on the market with similar functionality, this design presents a simpler way to experience the joy of changing dials, making it accessible to more people.” 

Eoniq 

At the heart of Hong Kong where time is unforgiving and rarely enough, a watch that requires agonizingly slow human dedication to build represents how time, at the end of the day, holds literal and uncompromising value. EONIQ Atelier doubles down on traditional craftsmanship directly out of Hong Kong, featuring manual pad printing, rich flame-blued steel hands and a level of local manufacturing that has the left watch circles speechless. “Nowadays, there are very few local brands, especially those producing domestically.” Kory notes. “Only a handful of watch companies and their affiliated suppliers can produce their own hairsprings in-house, with around ten or fewer major producers globally.” Thus, Kory found it impressive to see how the most challenging part of the craft was also once locally manufactured. While the hairspring factory ultimately relocated to Shenzhen, China, Kory states “It is quite rare to see a local brand invest significant effort and costs into genuine local production.” 

Kubernet 

Hailing from Macau, Kubernet tells us that history and heritage can live in places as small as a watch dial, turning it into a living heirloom. The Plumira features an organic dial made entirely from ethically sourced, naturally molted peacock feathers, applied by hand using an ancient feather-inlay technique akin to Classic Chinese Dian Cui art, Plumasserie. Sold in pairs, it echoes the Chinese cultural ideal of perfect pairing – 成雙成對. “Compared to Hong Kong and other places, Macau is a lesser-known location. However, they have chosen to use materials that evry few brands in the current watch world are willing to incorporate.” Kory says. “While related brands like Bulgari and Corum have experimented with this, very few others have done so, especially given the recent trend among brands to neglect this craft.” Kory suggests that this watch allows those who are not watch collectors to also appreciate the beauty of watch design. 

Arbutus 

While other brands hide their mechanics behind hypnotic dials, Arbutus rips the curtain open to show you the complex physics of time. The Double Balance is an aggressive, open-worked piece, featuring an exposed double balance wheel layout and a dual-barrel design, all balanced beautifully against an embossed raised-pyramid dial. Kory states “The imitation dual barrel design makes its appearance very appealing and outstanding, and also gives it a mechanical look,” adding on “Although it is not a true constant force or natural escapement, being able to purchase a watch with a double balance wheel at a price of a few hundred dollars is already tempting and refreshing.”, highlighting that his personal favourite is the design of the first generation. 

Read Between the Hands 

When you look down at your wrist, you are no longer reminded of how late you are. Instead, as Kory’s curated lineup reveals, a mechanical watch in the modern era is a manifestation of value. When you wear a Nectere, you’re choosing to embrace the spontaneous chaos of your everyday life. When you glance at an OLTO-8, you celebrate the joy of the present. Yet, to wear an Eoniq or a Kubernet is to appreciate the creator’s war dedication to craftmanship and their reverence to heritage. An Arbutus timepiece, on the other hand, recalls the beautiful architecture of time itself. By steering us towards the fearless craftsmanship of Hong Kong and Macau’s watch scene, it encapsulates how our hours are far too precious to be counted by a soulless digital screen. 

So now, gentlemen, tell us what’s your favourite watch?